Nice write up on Operation Sledgehammer over at FemmeFetal http://www.femmefataleairsoft.co.uk/2016/03/operation-sledgehammer-fight-for-plezrin.html.
We have another 36hr milsim in 2 weeks, Operation Crypt Kicker, also at Sennybridge. After that some of us will be going to the FCS event at Longmoor on April 2nd: https://www.facebook.com/groups/478126848883465/
After that I’m trying to get as many of the team as possible down to what should be a really good CQB training day at the Billet on April 23rd.
Here’s another video from operation Sledgehammer. During this contact I was leading the ambush/diversion force (actually Wolf 2) that split off from the main attack team to approach from the woods and draw off the enemy from the main attack. The ploy worked well as we draw most of the fire in the initial stages of the attack as we were attacking the enemy HQ. However as there were only 4 of us we were soon taken out. But our diversion allowed the main force to get into the target building almost entirely unopposed.
Our next Milsim event will be Operation Harrier at Longmoor on December 5th 2015. This is a FIBUA (Fighting in built up areas) urban training area, so lot’s of house clearing and street fighting. There is also a large woodland area at this site.
New members are always welcome. There’s no membership fee and we always get much more out of our airsoft by playing as a team, so why not come and join us? Use the contact form or drop us a message on facebook: https://www.facebook.com/groups/396085827250468/
Mark and Alister recently took part in Operation Sledgehammer a 36 hour milsim at the Sennybridge FIBUA. This was a tough event, sleeping on cold concrete floors, eating ration packs and fighting at night. There are photos in the photo gallery and below is a short taster video.
On the outside these three airsoft guns are almost identical, but on the inside they are totally different. The Bolt B4 Shorty is a conventional battery powered AEG with a near normal V2 gearbox. However the heavily reinforced Bolt gearbox also includes a push rod that extends through the rear of the gear box and moves a large weight backwards against a spring in the stock tube. When the trigger is released the weight flies forwards creating a recoil effect. The recoil is felt as a slightly soft, but well felt push backwards. On a standard Bolt the weight is then arrested by a buffer spring. As the recoil weight sits between two springs, it then wobbles back and forwards a bit and a “boing” sound can be heard. This is very unrealistic. However if you replace the buffer spring with a stack of silicone O rings you can eliminate this annoying “bounce” and the recoil feels much more realistic. ROF on a 7.4v Lipo is around 12 to 14 rps and trigger response is reasonably quick, although there is that slight delay while the motor spins up. Although Bolt claim you can run the gun from an 11.1v Lipo, I know of some users that have suffered from stripped gears on early versions of this gun. I run mine on a 7.4v Lipo and I’m happy enough with the RoF and believe the gun will be more reliable like this. Remember the motor and gear box are working much harder in this gun that a standard AEG as the recoil weight has to be moved as well as the piston.
The WE M4 is a classic gas blowback gun that is designed to run on green gas (a type of propane). The gun has a bolt just like a real gun that in this case it is propelled backwards by gas pressure when you press the trigger. This tends to make the gun move forwards in response to the bolt moving backwards. Once the bb has been fired the bolt springs forwards under spring pressure (creating a rearward jolt) and slams into the hopup chamber providing a third jolt sharp slap. The recoil is felt as a sharp jolt that comes just about the instant the trigger is pulled. With a standard gun there is a lot more recoil from this gun than there is from the Bolt B4 and if you want you can get heavier bolts and buffers for more recoil. It sounds good too, it gives a nice “phat” sound from the barrel along with a satisfying “clank” as the bolt slams home. But being a gas gun, while you get near instant trigger response and great sound you do suffer from cool down effects as the propane cools when you fire rapidly. In addition the mags only hold around just over 30rds. Great for Milsim, but not so good in a spray and pray skirmish.
The Tippmann M4 is a purpose designed air or CO2 powered airsoft gun based on Tippmann’s highly regarded paintball guns. You can use either 80 round CO2 magazines that take a single use 12g C02 bulb, or you can run it off an external air or CO2 cylinder and then use regular AEG magazines. Like the Bolt AEG recoil comes from a weight in the buffer tube that is pushed backwards by the guns air bolt. Again the recoil primarily pulls forwards and again like the Bolt B4 there is a lot of bounce and a “twang” spring noise. The feel of the recoil is similar to the Bolt B4, slightly soft but readily felt, although I felt the Tippmann had less recoil than the Bolt B4. When running off the CO2 mags there is some cool down and reduction in power from the first shot to the last. I got 400fps on the first shot which dropped to under 300fps by the last. On external air there is no cool down and the fps is very consistent. You have to change a few (included) parts inside the gun to switch between CO2 cylinders and external CO2/Air, so you can’t easily swap mid game. The trigger felt a little mushy compared to the WE but better than the Bolt.
In terms of realism the WE M4 is for me the most realistic. The recoil is sharp and distinct. There’s no obvious spring twang or wobble. The guns bolt operates very much like the real thing. The downsides are the limited mag capacity (although you also get bolt lock back when the mag is out adding to the realism), cool down loss of power when firing rapidly or trying to use the gun in very cold temperatures. For convenience the Bolt B4 is easy to use. It takes standard AEG mags so you can use Hi-Caps, Mid-Caps or whatever takes your fancy. It’s not bothered by cold weather and you don’t need an air tank on your back. But the recoil is less than the WE and it has that annoying sewing machine like whirr that all AEG’s produce. The Tippmann is a bit of a wild card. It sounds a lot more realistic, no sewing machine whirr, just a sharp “phat” as the BB leaves the barrel. The recoil is a bit soft and bouncy in the stock gun but there are aftermarket heavy bolts to increase the kick. But with the CO2 cylinders you’ll need a CO2 capsule for each 80 round mag and have to live with big changes in hop and velocity as you go through the mag. Or you carry a bulky external cylinder and air line, although well though out air rigs are barely noticeable during a game. Plus you’ll need to have somewhere that can fill your tanks for you.
There’s no one clear winner out of these 3. If you simply want the best realism and snappy trigger response then I’d go for the WE M4. If you want simplicity and ease of use, the Bolt B4. Want the snappy response of gas but with bigger mags then go for the Tippmann.
There is actually a 4th option: An HPA conversion for the WE M4. This gives the same recoil and snappy trigger response along with the ability to use higher capacity magazines! If you use an HPA magazine for the WE then you can switch between HPA and regular green gas just by swapping mags.
This looks very interesting. It’s an electronic BFG. It can be used as a timer, impact, topple or trip wire grenade and it beeps once you’ve used it to help you find it again. Looks really nice. I like the idea of being able to use it as a booby trap device.
In case you have not heard there is going to be an airsoft shopping mall at the Mall in reading next weekend. There will be dealers, traders, airsoft sites and much more. I will be attending and will be selling off some of my surplus kit, so if your interested in joining us come find me in the private sellers area. I’ll have an MTP top with Black Rams patches on the sleeves.
I have a couple of the new style Dynatex blank firing grenades (BFG’s). One of them started to go off almost as soon as the pin was pulled rather than after the normal 5 second delay. So I decided to take it apart to see what was going on. Sorry, no pictures at the moment, but next time I take one apart I’ll get some pics.
First, how to get in to them. The metal top of the grenade is press fitted into the plastic body. To remove the top, warm the upper half of the grenade with a very hot hair dryer for a few minutes or place the grenade in a warm oven (100c). Once the plastic is warm it is a lot more flexible.
Remove the cap where you stick the blank and instead of a blank inset a long bolt so that the shaft of the bolt passes through the hole in the cap. Screw the blank housing back into the top of the grenade and use the protruding long bolt shaft to lever out the entire top of the grenade from the warmed up plastic shell. You will only be able to get the top off if the plastic shell is hot, if it’s cold it won’t come out and you risk damaging the grenade.
Once the top is off the internal mechanism is very simple. The issue with mine was dirt under the upper (smaller) O-ring. This O-Ring acts as a one way valve to help you prime the grenade, any dirt under it will let air back through in effect keeping the valve open and the grenade will fire prematurely.
I recommend removing and cleaning both O-rings and then apply a very small amount of silicone grease to them. You only want a very, very small amount of grease as any excess grease will attract dirt and dust and could lead to more problems in the future.
You will also find a small allen head grub screw in the nylon shuttle. You can use this screw to adjust the timing of your grenade. Screw it in (clockwise) to increase the delay and turn it anti-clockwise to decrease the delay.
Reassemble the grenade by again warming up the plastic body and gently tap the top back into the body. If the body is warm enough it doesn’t require much effort to get the top back in.
For replacement pins you can buy split pins from any good car spares store and use a key ring ring for the pull ring.